I forgot the power cord for my laptop at work today, so I decided this was one of the nights I would go explore.
I tried to go to the local version of a mall, but I got there 20 mins to 8pm, when most everyone was closing up or closed. There are laws governing what hours businesses can be open here, and most places are closed on Sunday. Nothing is open 24 hours.
So I flipped around and cruised this side of Kaiserslautern. The Germany Lonely Plant Guide tells me that this town is not high on their “must see” list, but is nice to live in. It was so completely leveled by the French in the 1600s that everything that once made it cool is gone. At one point it was the seat of German power, and then again, at one point the French could beat the Germans in battle, too. It was a long time ago.
I have been struggling with going out because I don’t speak German. I know many locals do, and of course there is a big US military base here, so it’s probably fine. A guy I’m working with has been stationed here for over a year but doesn’t speak a word of German. He said the trick is, don’t ask if they know German, because lots of people will say no when they are not very fluent or confident, but most everyone knows enough to get you through a transaction at a register.
It’s just that I don’t want to come off like a jerk, all, “Nice country Germans! What’s up? Us Americans assume you all have bent to our will by now, so I’m not bothering with your language.” I want to sound more like, “hello nice people who live here, I don’t speak German or understand your money but I am a nice guy so please don’t screw me when you make change. By the way, did you know that your comma in the price there should look more like a period? Just sayin’…”
So I’ve been reluctant. I shopped yesterday and didn’t understand they didn’t take Visa. I would contend that this misunderstanding would have happened in plain English, because she took my card, looked at it, and ran it through the machine and waited. Then she sets it on the counter and says, in German, “We don’t take Visa.”
This behavior would make me say, “What?” twice in any language.
We worked it out, me and that zany clerk, but dinner is tougher. Think about it. Your meal comes with a salad, what kind of dressing do you want? Dinner roll or a sourdough loaf? How well do you want your steak cooked? These kinds of complex concepts are not going to be conveyed to me by waving your hands over the card and saying, “blah blah blah blaktershaven, Visa” until I figure out that you don’t take Visa but you swiped my card anyway (Why?!).
With these thoughts in my head and a strong determination not to go to Burger King (I still hate you, Burger King), I scanned the road, bathed in the too-bright glow of a fully lit Burger King sign a block away from a garishly overlit Burger King as I waited at the stoplight. Not a chance, you disgusting exported crap, I’m looking for anything else.
Problem was, in Germany it’s getting late. So I pull into the first place I remember from driving down the street before – styled after an old American diner, with booths and a bar and a milkshake machine on the counter. I didn’t even realize I was in an “American food” place until I got a menu, but in hindsight I must have had some sort of brain malfunction not to put two and two together on that one.
That’s okay, it looked like a well done local owned thing – a one-off, not a chain. They bragged “no fast food here” on the menu, but the rest was in German so I couldn’t read it. The funny thing was it was just like going to Gustav’s in Washington state, where names of the dishes are in German to be more authentic and give you a “German” experience. Here, they were in English. Sadly the descriptions are for the natives.
I usually try to eat different stuff when I travel so I did an initial scan to see if I could find anything with a German kick. Maybe just a hint. Nope, pretty American (well, everyone serves schnitzel, pork pounded flat, breaded and fried, but I had that at a better restaurant last night).
Instead I decide to go back to the burgers. It’s a burger joint, there is a page and a half of them, and they all have names that sound like someone took some common American proper nouns and attached them to burgers. I scan the list and think about burger joints, where the further down the list you go the weirder things get. How weird could things be in a German American Diner?
The fourth one down is “The South Dakota Burger.” Funny, but when I think of South Dakota I think “hmmm… flat… rectangular… cold winters… farming?… Uh… I got nothing here.” if you said to me, “Brian, make me a South Dakota Burger!” I would be at a total loss. If the idea is to spruce it up with an indigenous topping (like avocado is to California on a burger menu), I might say cow patty. Sorry South Dakota! Nice people, I’m sure, but if I ever live there it will be against my will.
Anyway, I can’t read the description but I’m a smart guy. I can figure things out in context and I am looking at an all-burger page. I am also in a country where no one expects you to finish a meal in under two hours so I have time on my side. And I have ordered a burger or two in my life.
I scan my burger, the South Dakota. I figure out the description of the bun, and the meat. Then come mystery ingredients. I scan the rest of the menu and find a Swiss Burger (it’s like Inception, for diners! A German American Diner with a Swiss burger! We have to go deeper! Does it have… French’s mustard!?). It has one of my mystery ingredients – I guessed it too! Mushrooms. Nice. I deconstruct this burger and figure out it has more flowery descriptions of each component because it’s in the “gourmet” section and is $5 more. Finally I decide if my burger has mushrooms I’m happy, I can pick off anything too crazy, and order it.
Turns out, South Dakotans (if that’s what they are called and if they are still reading), your signature burger is a cheddar and mushroom burger with undercooked bacon, lettuce, BBQ sauce and too much mayo (and I like mayo). The fries came with what I assume was a sort of sour cream and chive dip that I ate far too much of, because I love to dip things. It was like an inside out baked potato. Deep fried. Okay, it was bad for me, sure, but I’m just trying to sample the local-ish cuisine.
Overall it was good. The experience was a real confidence booster, which is good because I have wicked crazy plans in the coming days. I’ll keep ya posted, but if anyone is jealous already, as some of you have expressed, you might not be able to handle my weekend posts.
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